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Title: Illuminative knitted textiles : machine knitting with polymeric optical fibres (POFs)
Authors: Lam, NYK
Tan, J 
Toomey, A
Cheuk, KCJ
Issue Date: 2024
Source: Research journal of textile and apparel, 2024, v. 28, no. 2, p. 317-335
Abstract: Purpose: This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).
Design/methodology/approach: Knit prototypes were constructed using a 7-gauge industrial hand flat knitting machine. The textile prototype swatches developed in this study tested POF illumination in three types of knitting structures: intervallic knit and float stitch structures; POF inlaid into double plain and full cardigan structures; and double plain and partial knitting structures. The illuminative effects of the POFs in seven prototype swatches were analysed and compared.
Findings: It is possible to use an industrial hand flat knitting machine to knit POFs. Longer floats expose more POFs, which boosts illumination but limits the textile’s horizontal stretchability. The openness of the full cardigan structure maximises POF exposure and contributes to even illumination. The partial knitting in different sections achieves the most complete physical integration of POFs into the knitted textiles but constrains the horizontal stretchability of the textiles.
Practical implications: The integration of POFs into knitted textiles provides a functional illuminative effect. Applications include but are not limited to fashion, architecture and interior design.
Originality/value: This study is novel, as it investigates new POF knitted textiles with different loop structures. This study examines how knit stitches affect POFs in intervallic knit and float stitch, inlaid POF double knit, double plain and partial knit and the illuminative effects of the knitted textile.
Keywords: Polymeric optical fibres (POFs)
Hand flat knitting machine
Knit structure
POF integrated textile
Illuminative knitted textile
Publisher: Emerald Publishing Limited
Journal: Research journal of textile and apparel 
ISSN: 1560-6074
EISSN: 2515-8090
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-12-2021-0144
Rights: © Emerald Publishing Limited. This AAM is provided for your own personal use only. It may not be used for resale, reprinting, systematic distribution, emailing, or for any other commercial purpose without the permission of the publisher.
The following publication Lam, N.Y.K., Tan, J., Toomey, A. and Cheuk, K.C.J. (2024), "Illuminative knitted textiles: machine knitting with polymeric optical fibres (POFs)", Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, Vol. 28 No. 2, pp. 317-335 is published by Emerald and is available at https://dx.doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-12-2021-0144.
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