Potential of printable interlining in place of fusible interlining in garment manufacture

Abstract

Woollen fabric is main fabric in suit manufacture. Among the complicated suit manufacture process, interlinings play an important role to improve the formability and silhouette performance which enhance the suit performance. However, traditional fusible interlinings are costly with tedious production process and have some drawbacks such as strike through and bubbles. Printing technique has widely used in the garment manufacture, printing technique directly print on the woollen fabrics which could enhance quality and develop production and cost efficient as well. The purpose of this thesis is to give a critical and comprehensive measurement of the existing woollen fabrics fused with interlinings for suit making, and explore the suitable printable interlinings which could in place of the fusible interlinings with production and cost efficient. Kawabata Evaluation System of Fabric (KES-F) objectively measured low-stress mechanical properties and hand value of both traditional fusible interlinings and printable interlinings on woollen fabrics. It was confirmed that fusible interlinings changed woollen fabrics which dramatically increased bending and shearing properties, compression and tensile properties changed obviously, and surface properties were slightly affected. The most influenced primary hand value was stiffness of woollen fabrics with fusible interlinings. Fusible interlinings thickness, weight and adhesive density properties were highly related with stiffness, softness, smoothness and THV of woollen fabrics with interlinings. Subjective evaluation showed that gender and education background of judges affected on softness and THV respectively in terms of woollen fabrics with fusible interlinings. In addition, it was found that printable interlinings obviously developed the total hand value of woollen fabrics which achieve the fusible interlinings' function. Printing technique was optimized based on orthogonal analysis, which resin viscosity, screen mesh, and squeeze frequency were analysed the optimized proportion for achieved the required hand value and low-stress mechanical properties using for garment manufacture.