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Title: Creation of natural self-grown fashion
Authors: Wang, Wen
Degree: Ph.D.
Issue Date: 2017
Abstract: The fashion industry whose production relies on a complex network of large-scale agricultural units, oil-based fibre production, and chemical dyeing and finishing manufacturing based on petro chemistry is regarded as responsible for causing soil erosion, water pollution, and large scale carbon dioxide emissions and waste because of the many production processes it involves. The global rise in oil price animal and environmental protection has resulted in an increase in the cost of synthetic materials. Nature provides the ultimate model of sustainability where there is no waste and only nutrients. This study aimed to generate a new design concept and design process for future fashion creation and applications from natural renewable and degradable resources. The ultimate aim of this study was to explore the possibility of creating unique Self-grown Fashion (SFG) via natural means. This study was practice-led in nature, with the aims to explore, expand, and invent an original direction and dimension for future fashion creation, it involved theoretical exploration and practical experimentation for innovative SGF creation. The study began with a substantial worldwide literature review of past and present materials, processes, and techniques that have enabled the creation of naturally grown objects and fashion items. Through understanding the various investigated and classified past and present attempts at growing natural materials, a theoretical framework and process for growing natural materials was established. Further analysis of the respective materials, processes, techniques, and styles of these attempts, and a classification and comparison among the physical and mechanical behaviours of their materials, cultivation processes, and techniques have identified bacterial fermentation and bacterial cellulose as the optimal material for SGF creation from nature. Concurrently, a definition of SGF was established. After the properties of the materials were investigated and the techniques were deployed, an original design system of SGF creation was formulated to organise and guide the course of SGF design and creation. The design system realises the rationale and procedures underlying the otherwise serendipitous design process for optimal results and efficiency. A comparison of the processes of traditional fashion creation and SGF creation was made and presented. Following the study of the materials and techniques selected and establishment of the design system of SGF creation, experiments were conducted and samples were produced to provide a practical understanding of the physical and mechanical properties of the materials and techniques, and to identify novelties that have arisen from the course of exploration and experimentation. The systems also guided the exploration and experimentation procedures so as to ensure that "a systematic inquiry of knowledge" was performed. At the stage of pre-material experimentation, various bacterial cellulose pellicles grown from different culture media were explored under different culture solution concentrations, incubation times, and temperatures. Through the comparison and evaluation of the properties of the dehydrated cellulosic pellicle, the optimal growing conditions of the material towards SGF creation were identified and are presented in his thesis. Following the post-material experimentations was the exploration on the texture and appearance of the material, as well as the formation of the silhouette, form, and structure of the material towards the ultimate objective of SGF design and creation. In the final stage of the study, a series of experimental samples and true-size fashion garments were created and presented to exemplify and validate the original concept of natural SGF creation.
The thrust of this research project is to offer a brand new innovative creative process of fashion design and creation that would expand and enrich both the creative and technical dimension of fashion design. It was envisaged that the successful creation of natural SGF would not only expand the aesthetical and technological dimensions of fashion creation that would redefine fashion as object d'art through novel materials and technologies, but also would it reshape our lifestyle, environment and the cultural context in which we live. Successful accomplishment of the set objectives would further enhance research in this area that are of tremendous artistic and commercial significance and value.
Subjects: Hong Kong Polytechnic University -- Dissertations
Clothing trade -- Environmental aspects
Fashion -- Environmental aspects
Sustainable development
Pages: xvii, 143 pages : color illustrations
Appears in Collections:Thesis

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