黎锦中的生成 : 海南岛黎族织工的具身性实践

Abstract

海南岛是中国生态与文化多样性的重要区域,黎族是其世居民族之一.黎族女性在与工具、材料及自然环境的长期互动中,发展出了关于黎锦的纺、染、织和绣等一系列实践.这些有关黎锦的日常实践也塑造了黎族织娘独特的具身知识和创造力.本文基于民族志田野调查,聚焦自20世纪80年代以来活跃的三位黎族女性织工,分别代表体制内工人、私营企业主与村落中的零工劳动者.研究表明,不同职业路径下的织工在国家形象塑造、旅游开发和时尚产业等制度环境中,其具身实践与创造性表达展现出多样化的生成逻辑.这些生成过程既包括自上而下的身体规训与创造力压制,也暗含着黎族织娘在社会变迁中以具身方式所展开的抵抗实践和自我表达 Hainan Island is a significant region in China noted for its ecological and cultural diversity, and the Li people are one of its long-standing indigenous ethnic groups. Through long-term interactions with tools, materials, and the natural environment, Li women have developed a series of practices surrounding Li brocade, including spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery. These everyday practices relating to Li brocade have also shaped the unique embodied knowledge and creativity of Li weavers. Drawing on ethnographic fieldwork, this article focuses on three Li weavers who have been active since the 1980s, each following a different occupational trajectory: a state-employed worker, a private entrepreneur, and a rural gig laborer. The study finds that their embodied knowledge and creative expressions have taken diverse forms within institutional frameworks such as national image-making, tourism development, and the fashion industry. These processes of becoming encompass not only top-down bodily discipline and the suppression of creativity, but also the spontaneous emergence of subjectivity and embodied resistance during contemporary social transformations.