Digitalized intangible cultural heritage preservation : application of computer-aided pattern generation and digital jacquard weaving technology in reinventing men’s cheongsam design and development practice

Abstract

This research investigates the reinvention of Hong Kong men’s cheongsam design and development practice conducted between January 2023 and December 2025. Based on the research findings on the structures, garment pattern development principles, and cutting methods of Hong Kong men’s cheongsam attained from the team’s previous study, this project further applied computer-aided pattern generation and digital jacquard weaving technology to reinvent the design and development practice of the attire. The project aimed to 1) investigate the current practice and construct a theoretical framework and design process model from an algorithmic perspective, 2) develop digitalised systems for algorithmic pattern generation and integrated design with the adoption of CAD/CAM technologies, 3) conduct digitalised design practices and create research prototypes, as well as 4) evaluate the design practices and research prototypes and provide implications for pragmatic applications of digitalised design practice beyond the academia. With reference to the cheongsam research programmes curated by the Hong Kong Museum of History (HKMoH), Intangible Cultural Heritage Office (ICHO), tertiary Institutes, and specialist researchers in 2011, 2014, 2018, 2019, 2021, and findings of the research titled “The Craftsmanship of Hong Kong Men’s Cheongsam—Archive, Analysis, Inheritance and Implementation”, the team conducted an in-depth qualitative study through a practice-based embedded practice-led design research. Semi-structured interviews were conducted with master-tailors, registered ICH bearers, relevant scholars, and specialist researchers to depict the current practice. A digitalised design model, which enhances the design possibility, customisation feasibility, and development efficiency, was developed and implemented through a constructive design practice. The practice was evaluated for optimising the novel design and development model of Hong Kong men’s cheongsam. The research outputs include a conference paper, a digital design portfolio, and a collection of men’s cheongsam creations for a series of exhibitions and part of two museums’ permanent collections.