The craftsmanship of Hong Kong men’s cheongsam – archive, analysis, inheritance, and implementation

Abstract

This research, conducted in Hong Kong between September 2022 and March 2025, investigated the history and craftsmanship of Hong Kong men’s cheongsam. The project focused on authentic Chinese tailoring craftsmanship, consistently preserved in Hong Kong men’s cheongsam since the 1900s, and its unique development path in Hong Kong. The research aimed to 1) investigate the development of men’s cheongsam in Hong Kong; 2) examine its authentic dress form, structural variations, representative materials, tailoring procedures and techniques, and craftsmanship; and 3) establish a multimedia archive to serve as a primary point of reference. Based on the cheongsam programmes curated by the Hong Kong Museum of History (HKMoH), the Intangible Cultural Heritage Office (ICHO), tertiary institutes and specialist researchers in 2011, 2014, 2018, 2019, and 2021, the team performed an in-depth qualitative study. Semi-structured interviews were conducted with master tailors, registered intangible cultural heritage (ICH) bearers, specialist researchers, owners and donors of cheongsam relics. Furthermore, complete tailoring demonstrations of six men’s cheongsams, performed by two master tailors and registered ICH bearers, were recorded and analysed systematically. An assembly of 29 men’s cheongsam specimens tailored between 1920s and 2020s were then inspected. Finally, field studies were conducted to provide supplementary materials. The team consolidated the historic development, role and sociocultural value of the attire in Hong Kong social practices, ICH preservation works and the authentic craftsmanship of diverse types of men’s cheongsam. The research outputs include an online database archive, two e-books, two scholarly articles, two oral history video editorials, two craftsmanship video editorials, one journal paper, one conference paper, research prototypes and cheongsam creations for a series of exhibitions and museum collections.