Investigation of the craftsmanship, development, and transmission of Hong Kong women’s cheongsam

Abstract

“Investigation of the Craftsmanship and Transmission of Hong Kong Women’s Cheongsam” is a research project systematically conducted in Hong Kong between November 2020 and October 2021. The project addressed the unique transformative craftsmanship and development pattern of Hong Kong women’s cheongsam between the 1920s and 2010s. The project aimed to 1) investigate the authentic craftsmanship, forms, tailoring procedures and techniques of Hong Kong women’s cheongsam; 2) investigate the craftsmanship-related stylistic development and sociocultural values shift of the attire; 3) establish a digital database archive to serve as a primary point of reference; and 4) develop and implement ICH transmission programmes. With reference to the cheongsam programmes curated by the Hong Kong Museum of History (HKMoH), Intangible Cultural Heritage Office (ICHO) and tertiary institutes in 2011, 2014, 2018 and 2019, the team conducted an in-depth qualitative study. The team analysed 58 pieces of cheongsam relics and specimens tailored between the 1920s and 2010s, historical images, video-recorded tailoring demonstrations and interviews with master tailors, registered ICH bearers, scholars, owners and donors of the cheongsam relics. The structural and stylistic characteristics, craftsmanship, tailoring procedures and techniques and the underlining sociocultural value shift of the attire, which were not fully covered by the previous research, were consolidated. The research outputs consist of a digital database archive, an oral history video editorial, tailoring documentaries, research prototypes and design creations, a series of exhibitions and the corresponding editorials. The findings were presented to the public in the form of exhibitions and research seminars and further employed in the development of a 13-session refereed interinstitutional ICH transmission programme, cheongsam design and community projects in 2022 and 2023.