Application of tradition to modern market study of traditional lattice smocking to fashion textiles

Abstract

In many findings, smocking is classified as a kind of craftsmanship, which stated as a kind of embroidery technique to control fabric fullness by creating gathers and enhances elasticity in garments. (Dorothea Hall, 1999) It had been applied in various textiles products such as pillow, costume and curtain from Middle Ages to present. Smocking commonly uses in cuffs, bodices, neckline and waistline in costume. In these decades, smocking has been transformed from costume and living goods to fashion and art pieces. It is commonly found in high-street fashion collections and, even, used as a media by many modern textiles artists for expressing concept and ideas as well. Those textiles artists developed their own interpretations of conventional smocking stitches to secure folds and create aesthetic effect. Smocking varies in combination of pattern,stitches, threading and fabric. This paper aimed to explore more possibilities through developing contemporary smocking by combining innovative techniques and materials. It may also provide a reference for designers who would like to explore the possible application of contemporary smocking to garments or textiles.